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 The last miles of the Mediterranean Sea remained astern. We entered the Strait of Gibraltar. It connects the sea with the Atlantic Ocean. In a grayish-blue haze, as if straight out of the water, the famous "Pillars of Hercules" rose.
As in the legend, for some reason it seemed to me that they must necessarily support the sky. But there were no such pillars. And instead of them. .. On the European coast is the rocky peninsula of Gibraltar, very reminiscent of the familiar to many Crimean mountain Cat, which is near Simeiz. In African - the Sierra Boullones mountain range with the summit of Sidi Musa.
Gateway to the Atlantic
In the morning fog, the silhouette of the peninsula seemed somewhat blurry. The lighthouse lights gradually faded In the distance, against the background of a brightening gray sky, the violet-blue contours of the mountain ranges of Andalusia slowly appeared.
Intense tidal currents coming from the ocean are observed in the strait. Occasionally formidable tornadoes sweep here. Strong winds almost always blow. The most frequent storms are in winter. But in summer the waters of the strait are restless.
At its narrowest point, the Strait of Gibraltar, which still separates Africa from Europe, is only 14 kilometers wide. Its maximum depth is 460 meters.
Scientists have proposed many projects for connecting two continents with an underwater tunnel or a grand dam with a hydroelectric complex and sluices. Engineers have calculated that the future hydroelectric complex in the Strait of Gibraltar will provide hundreds of millions of kilowatts of cheap electrical energy from tidal currents. A transcontinental railroad and highway will be built on the dam. Recently, the government of the young African Republic of Morocco decided to begin construction of an underwater tunnel under the strait. Its construction was entrusted to a special company established in the country.
The Gibraltar Peninsula in the east is very steep, and in some places almost sheer, drops off to the sea. Even from a distance, large, whitish scree-like, concreted multi-tiered slopes are clearly visible, designed to collect rainwater. It is the only natural source of water in Gibraltar. The Rock of Gibraltar is 429 meters high, and clouds almost always hang on top of it. Of these, raindrops fall onto the platforms, and then collect in a huge concrete bowl. There water is settled and filtered. It is piped to the city and partly to huge underground storage facilities. Still, there is not enough drinking water, so they bring it in.
The western coast of the Gibraltar Peninsula is flatter. It is covered with lush subtropical vegetation. There is a large monkey nursery, one of the best in the world. To the south, the rocky massif of the "Hercules Pillar" is gradually leveled towards Cape Europa - the southernmost point of our continent.
Colony in Europe
On the Gibraltar roadstead and near the port berths There are many ships flying the flags of various countries of the world. There are several Soviet fishing trawlers on their way home to Odessa and Kaliningrad.
The ship anchored in the Bay of Gibraltar. Parking for several days. It was necessary to replenish supplies of fuel, water and food before the long crossing of the Atlantic Ocean. The boat takes us to the shore. Although Gibraltar is considered a free port, the entry of sailors into the city and their return to ships is rather strictly controlled by the police. In any case, instead of passports, one-time passes are issued, which, by the way, say the following: "I, Queen Elizabeth, allow you to enter my domain!" This doesn't sound convincing these days.
Immediately outside the port gate, you find yourself in the arms of loud advertising.The advertisement called for the purchase of the latest Volkswagen cars. According to her testimony, only the ubiquitous Mobil fills up the best and cheapest fuel. And a multitude of multi-colored billboards "Coca-Cola" and "Pepsi-Cola" seemed to float in the transparent blue of the southern spring sky.
Under the wide shady fans of the already middle-aged slender palm trees and on the rocky crossroads of many narrow streets of the city, the advertisement was different. Here, in shops or simply from stalls, there was a lively trade in ice cream, various soft drinks, fruits, sweets, cigarettes and other goods. Everything was laid out in front of the buyer.
There are numerous car maintenance firms in Gibraltar. While the inspection, refueling or car repairs are in progress, there are cozy cafes, attractive bars, and small restaurants at the service of motorists.
Traffic cops in uniforms and black helmets do a lot of work most of the day. There is always heavy traffic of cars and pedestrians on narrow streets.
Here, near a high blank wall at the corner of the street, there is one of the phaeton camps - a somewhat archaic type of transport in our atomic age. However, it attracts special attention of wealthy tourists. And not only in Gibraltar, but in many cities around the world. From under the umbrella of a one-horse crew, you can leisurely inspect all the most interesting, often inaccessible to the overview from the car. The charioteer willingly fulfills the duties of a guide. He always needs money.
Gibraltar is the only colony in Europe. It's strange. But this is reality. Colony in Europe! True, it is very small in area. Its territory is only about five square kilometers. The population is also small - a little over 25,000 people, without a military garrison. Mostly Italians, Spaniards and British. The British governor is also the commander-in-chief of the armed forces of the colony, which only recently received the right of local government.
Jutting far out to sea in the south of the Iberian Peninsula, Gibraltar has long been known as the western key to the Mediterranean due to its strategic position. In the postwar years, it also became an important international tourist destination on the border of two continents. Lines of cars stretched out on the territory of the port. They are waiting for a crossing to Africa or to the opposite shore of the Bay of Gibraltar - to the Spanish city of Algesiras.
Trade and ... trade
The city of Gibraltar is picturesquely stretched at the foot of a rocky mountain. Now he can only push his boundaries up. New multi-storey buildings are gradually rising to the ledges of the rocks.
The streets are full of life. It is always crowded in the port areas of the city. An endless stream of foreign cars of various brands rushes through the streets.
The city has many beautiful parks, squares and gardens. Countless monuments, ancient fortifications, grottoes, caves, silent cannons of the past centuries, museums. Wonderful flowers and bright greenery.
The main shopping street in Gibraltar is Main Street. It is also the oldest street in the city. Most of the shops, bank offices, hotels are concentrated here. Restaurants, bars and cafes are open until late at night. Gibraltar is obliged to entertain sailors and tourists. This is his business. Therefore, experienced businessmen stop at nothing.
Everything from modern transistors, tape recorders, cameras and Chinese mechanical toys to the latest, world-class car models can be bought in Gibraltar.
Sellers in shops, especially in small shops, are mostly Hindus. They are explained in many languages using a few of the most common phrases. And they have to drag customers straight to the shops, offering a wide variety of goods, often of very dubious quality.
The small shops near the port and on the main street are very busy.A variety of products are advertised, the import of which into Gibraltar is tax-free due to the free port status. Products from many countries of the world are sold here. The prices for most of them are much lower than in the countries where they are produced. Not only British, but also other European and even American firms sell their surpluses here. For example, several hundred million packs of American cigarettes arrive in Gibraltar every year. The free port privileges are widely used by smugglers. Various goods systematically enter the black markets of many Mediterranean and overseas states through Gibraltar.
Chronicle and modernity
Chroniclers testified that as early as 711 AD, Arab conquerors from North Africa under the command of Tariq ibn Zeyad crossed the strait and landed on the European mainland near Aljesiras. Soon they captured all the heights and the mountainous Skalu peninsula (as Gibraltar was called then). Subsequently, he was named Ghibel Tariq or Hol-lof Tariq. The Moors ruled here for almost seven and a half centuries.
In 1462, the Spaniards managed to liberate Gibraltar. But already in 1704, during the famous War of Spanish Succession, within three days the sailors of the Anglo-Danish fleet, led by Vice Admiral George Ruck, captured this important bastion in the south of the Iberian Peninsula. In 1713, Gibraltar was transferred to England under the Treaty of Utrecht. Although before that the Spaniards did not lose hope of recapturing Gibraltar, periodically besieging it.
On one occasion, a Spanish fleet blockaded Gibraltar for nearly four years. The British fought hard and the siege was lifted. The defenders of the fortress hid in the rocks, they had to eat game and drink rain water. Then, for the first time, drainage tanks were built on the slopes of the mountain. The monkeys, of which there were a lot in the rocks at that time, with their cries announced the approach of enemies, thus providing assistance to the British. And today the Gibraltars take care of the monkeys. For them, a wonderful reserve-nursery was created here on the slope of the cliff. There is no other such thing in Europe.
After the Peace of Utrecht, Gibraltar acquired historical significance as a naval and air base for Great Britain, that strongest colonial imperialist power. During the First and Second World Wars, Gibraltar was a vital link in the chain of communications of the former "ruler of the seas" between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
Until recently, Gibraltar was very often used by NATO military forces. There was a military airfield, where aircraft with nuclear weapons on board, a well-equipped seaport, large ammunition depots and more were based.
Spain has also officially announced that it will no longer consider Gibraltar as a NATO military base. The countries - members of this aggressive bloc - were forbidden to use it. This decision of the Spanish government was a response to England's refusal to consider the issue of clarifying the further status of Gibraltar.
For many years, the Gibraltar problem has been discussed in a special UN committee. There the Spanish representatives demand that England return Gibraltar.
Holidays and ceremonies
An arts festival is held in Gibraltar every summer. Against the background of fancifully illuminated stalactites of the wonderful natural amphitheater of the San Michel Cave, under the green crowns of the theater in the Alameda Park and in the magical patio of the Governor's Palace, musical, ballet and dramatic performances are replaced by one another. Thousands of tourists, sailors and city residents welcome the popular artists.
And in autumn - a holiday of the sea. This is a well-known competition in Europe for amateur fishermen, yachtsmen, rowers, adherents of glide-sulfur sports. An unforgettable impression remains with everyone who at least once saw a grandiose festive fireworks display over the sea in Gibraltar.
Since the British took possession of Gibraltar in 1704, the keys to the fortress have become its symbolic property. They were ceremonially handed over to the governor every evening for safekeeping. The so-called "sergeant of the keys", accompanied by an armed escort, drummers and trumpeters, at nightfall before the gates were closed, invited all foreigners to leave the territory of the fortress. Then the sergeant checked the security of the guard and locked the gate at night.
And today, since 1933, this interesting traditional "key ceremony" takes place once a month in Gibraltar. There is a lot of theatricality in it, probably designed mainly to attract tourists. In addition, the British are known to sacredly observe traditions.
And I was just lucky.
... ... ... The thunder of drums and the singing of fanfare sounded over the city. The sergeant, accompanied by an escort of soldiers in bright uniforms and a military band, makes a clear march along the main street to Kazematskaya Square. The column passes by the governor's residence. A guard outside the governor's palace greets the sergeant. The guard has been changing several times a day for the past 264 years ...
A platoon of the fortress guard was lined up on Kazematskaya square. Next to him, on command "attention", the sergeant escort freezes. The sergeant receives the keys to the fortress from the hands of the governor. The governor gives the royal salute to the sound of the British national anthem. A military orchestra marches past his tribune in a ceremonial march. The signal of evening dawn sounds. The flag is lowered. A cannon shot rings out.
Then the sergeant "locks" the large gates of the fortress and, accompanied by an escort and a platoon of security guards, goes to the governor's residence. The sergeant hands him the keys and reports: “The fortress is completely safe. Everything is fine!"
A bit of political economy
There are many taxi stops near the port entrance and in most squares of the city. Phaetons' parking lots can often be seen next to them. Taxis, like these vintage carriages, are privately owned. Their drivers - Gibraltars or Spaniards - vied with each other to suggest different routes. More recently, for a fee, you could visit the Spanish cities of Malaga, Grenada, Valencia, Barcelona and even Madrid. For wealthy travelers, it was easy. In addition, travel across the Spanish border was practically free for most foreign tourists.
Recently, due to tensions in relations between Spain and England, the Spanish authorities have sharply limited the possibilities of movement of people and the transport of goods across the Spanish-Gibraltar border. In any case, these restrictions have made it very difficult to supply Gibraltar with food, drinking water and medicine, as well as provide it with a labor force. Only 6,000 Spanish workers are allowed to cross the neutral zone to work in Gibraltar every day.
The British are now forced to import food into Gibraltar from North Africa.
New reports indicate a further aggravation of relations between England and Spain in connection with the dispute over Gibraltar. Spain even tried to establish an air blockade of it, once declaring the area surrounding Gibraltar closed to the flights of aircraft of all countries.
It is not known how this dispute will end and how long Gibraltar will remain under British rule. However, the fate of the only colony in Europe - a military base-fortress at the foot of the "Hercules Pillar" is still in her tenacious hands.
T. S. Lebedev
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