Kalach Moscow (according to an old recipe)

[Moscow kalachi]

Kalach Moscow (according to an old recipe)

Category: Yeast bread

Kitchen: Russian

Ingredients
Dough:
Fresh yeast	10g.
Warm boiled water	250g.
Wheat flour, premium	225g.
Dough:
Krupchatka *	225g.
Warm boiled water	25g.
Salt	9d.

Cooking method

• «- Moscow kalachi are good! - shouted an elderly man, carrying a basket on his head, and, turning to Pelageya Prokhorovna, said tenderly: "Would you like to buy?" (F. M. Reshetnikov "WHERE IS BETTER?")
• Cooking dough: Dissolve yeast in water, mix with flour, cover with foil and put in a warm place for 2 hours.
• Cooking the dough: Pour water into the HP bucket, put the dough. Top with grains and salt. Dough mode. More water may be required when mixing. It should be added in small (5g) portions. After the end of kneading, transfer the dough into a container with a volume of at least 3 liters. Cover with foil and leave for 12 hours.
• Then put the dough on the table, sprinkled with flour and knead with your hands.
• Roll out into a thick strip, which is cut into 7 pieces, weighing 100g. Roll each piece into round loaves of flour and let stand for 30 minutes.
• Next, roll in round sausages so that the middle is thicker than the ends (it is more convenient to roll between the hands), blind the ends (handles) together and put them on a floured board. Let rise for 20 to 30 minutes.
• Cut the middle with a sharp knife. Turn the cut part (lip) towards the handle, sprinkle the incision thickly with flour. Then use a culinary brush to sweep away the flour, then return the lip to its original position.
• 
• Before placing in the oven, stretch the rolls slightly with your hands so as to increase the distance between the handle and the tummy.
• Fold on a baking sheet covered with paper.
• Place a cup of water on the bottom of the oven. Bake in an oven preheated to 250C for 20-25 minutes until lightly browned. Considering that there is neither sugar nor oil in the composition, there will be no bright browning. Therefore, it makes no sense to keep more than the specified time This can cause the product to dry out.
• Cool on a wire rack, covered with a towel.
• 
• 
• 
• KALACH- the oldest type of white bread in Russia. Of all the white breads in Russia, it is the most well-bored Kalach. For this he is especially loved. Hole rate has always been an indicator of the high quality of bread, more precisely, one of five main indicators: appearance, color, taste, aroma and wellness.
• Kalach for a long time seemed like a mystery against the background of the rest of the Russian bread repertoire, based on raw rye and steep fermentation. The very origin of its name is considered controversial.
• Some linguists tend to see the basis in the word "kolo", "wheel", that is, a distorted "kolach" - round, circular bread. Others, more correctly, derive this name from the Tatar
• "kalach", that is, literally - "be hungry!", an expression that reflects a high degree of appetite.
• Consequently, "kalach" means "appetizing", which seems more true both in meaning and in historical origin.
• Kalachi have been known since the XIV century. as a borrowing of the Tatar unleavened white bread (flat cakes), transformed in the Russian processing, rye sourdough was given to the wheat dough.
• Hence the dissimilarity, the difference between the roll dough and its preparation from all other known Russian types of bread.
• Both the form and the names of the individual parts of the kalach are purely Russian inventions. It has the main middle part - a belly with a lip, then a handle, or, more correctly, a bow (in antiquity it was also called perevyaslo), and each part differs in nuances of taste, since with different shapes and volumes they are kept in the oven for the same time and therefore baked and "fried" in different ways.
• Moscow and Murom kalachs have long been known in Russia. Murom kalach was made from sieve dough (passed through a sieve, not a sieve). The main feature of the dough for the Murom roll is its wellness: the dough was crumpled for a long time ("rubbed") by hands on ice, thanks to which the carbon dioxide contained in it did not evaporate - and the product turned out to be porous, with large voids inside. Thanks to the dough, the second name of the Murom roll appeared - "grated". Today, the manufacturing technology of Murom rolls has been lost, and Moscow ones have survived to this day.
• Due to its high quality, the Moscow kalach has long been famous throughout Russia. “Moscow rolls are hot like fire,” the people said approvingly. One of the differences of the roll dough is its ability not to dry out for a long time. In the XIX century. The rolls were frozen in Moscow and transported to Paris, where they were thawed in hot towels and served as freshly baked, even after one or two months.
• Kalachi were among the "specially famous Moscow foods."
• IA Raevsky, recalling his childhood impressions, wrote: “Departure for St. Petersburg was considered a true misfortune and was always accompanied by despair and bitter tears.
• In Moscow, where we stopped in transit, we were a little comforted by the large courtyard of our house on Vozdvizhenka and the hot rolls, which we loved very much. "
• Moscow kalachs were sung by poets:
• In Moscow, the Russians are straight,
• All hospitals are noteworthy!
• What kind of rolls are there!
• Don't bake the Germans like that! -
• we read in the message of AE Izmailov "On the departure of a friend to Moscow."
• Prince D. Ye. Tsitsianov talked about how Potemkin sent him from Moscow to Peterhof to deliver to Catherine II for breakfast her favorite Moscow hot rolls.
• “He rode so quickly that his sword incessantly knocked against the milestones, and in Peterhof rolls were brought to Her Majesty's breakfast. As a token of gratitude, she gave Potemkin a sable fur coat ”, - reports Tsitsianov's story AO Smirnova-Rosset.
• Many Russian proverbs were also dedicated to Kalach, which speaks of the enormous popularity and prestige of this bread product. Kalach has always been a symbol of prosperity and served as an emblem of wealth and prosperity. "Kyakhta tea, Moscow kalach - this is how a rich man has an afternoon snack." "From the ball - a white face." "Not a hand to a peasant's son - there are loaves." "Where are you going with a pork snout and into a kalakny row."

Note

* ROUGH, -and, well. White wheat flour of the best grinding. (Dictionary of S. Ozhegov)
Coarse grains, grit The best grade of white wheat flour, the finest grinding. (Ushakov's Dictionary)

As it turned out, not everything is so simple with the definition of grains. Different sources, different interpretation. I tried to get to the bottom of the truth.

Krupchatka is a variety of wheat flour characterized by significant grain size. Usually flour is sorted through silk sieves from No. XI to No. XVI, while flour is sorted through more rare sieves from No. VII to No. X. Such flour was prepared only in Russia, mainly from durum wheat. When well-sorted, it is not dusty and separate; it is less hygroscopic, more persistent and gives more heat. Foreign bakers do not know how to handle Krupchatka, which explains the failure of its export abroad; meanwhile, this type of flour, in comparison with its smaller varieties, especially with very fine, ground flour, has considerable advantages, and the preparation of good grain is often more expensive than the finer flour.

“And before, only the ladies ate the large roll. It is made from finely ground white wheat flour and eaten with milk or honey "(A. Brezhnev" Grated Kalach ")

Old Russian books wrote: “Out of 12 different products of wheat milling, only 3 varieties of M are prepared for sale: 1) grit; 2) pervach - made from pervach, shredded M. and second pervach; and 3) the worst grade - culling, or kulichny M. - a mixture of sleeveless, kulichny and mezheumka; this mixture is used to make semi-white wheat bread and gingerbread "...

In E. Molokhovets, in the book "A Gift to Young Housewives", grit is used in all bakery products.

That is, grit is the best grade of flour made from mostly durum wheat, which turns out to be "gritty" not because of grinding, but because of its natural hardness, that is, it does not stick together like soft, and therefore swells better in the dough, that is . has high gluten and is valued accordingly higher.

Wheat flour is produced in five grades: grit, premium, first, second grade and wallpaper.
Grit is the best type of wheat flour with the largest particles. The color of the grains is light cream. Usually it is used in a mixture with flour of other grades - the highest and the first. Gluten (protein substances of flour, which absorb water when kneaded) 12.5-14%.
Flour of the highest grade is white with a slightly creamy hue. To the touch, it is finer and softer than grains. Gluten 10-11%
Flour of the first grade is also white, but sometimes with a yellowish tinge.
Flour of the second grade is darker than that of the above varieties in color.

At present, durum varieties are mainly used for making pasta flour with a low gluten content. Therefore, I had to use flour from soft wheat, but with 14% gluten:
In the annotation, the manufacturer writes: Ideal for dough, can also be used to increase the effectiveness of other flours. This is an ideal flour for the preparation of bakery products, including those for long leavening (dough). Products such as croissant, panettone, Pandora, pizza, puff pastry, bread in HP.

Sources: 🔗, 🔗,
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Kalach "Rozhdestvensky". (Viki)

Kalach with chocolate glaze (Omela)

Kalach Moskovsky (Scarecrow)

What a beauty ... !!! Taking off my hat.

Meel, well, you give me, I learned an interesting flow, my respect for patience and such love for baking, (and chubby little pens, are these novice assistants? Apparently they are also trying very hard ...)

[Marina, inusya,]

Marina, inusya, thank you girls for the kind words.

my respect for patience and such love for baking

Yeah .. there is such a thing .. I read it for 2 weeks .. and baked it 3 times .. with different flour and at different temperatures ..

and chubby little pens - these are novice assistants?

And where are they chubby there? For me - so dead !!! But the assistant is exactly !!!!!!

very impressive, such chubby handsome men !!! Bravo!

[natapit]

natapit , Thank you!

such chubby beauties !!!

[/ b]
Kalachi, chi pens ???

Do you know why I roll a pen?

We know! But we are silent !! : secret: And what is it - "to reach the handle" too!

[Mistletoe]

Oh-oh-oh ... and I even remember the smell and taste of such rolls. They were sold in Filipovskaya bakery. They are such kulebyaki as big pies. Mistletoe, are they the same?

[Marine]

Marine, they were indeed sold by Filippov. But I, unfortunately, did not find it. Therefore, I have nothing to compare with. The taste I would describe as bread from a wood-burning oven.(and even those specimens that failed in the course of my experiments were still delicious). Although I did not eat bread from the oven. But it seems to me that it should be just that.

Yes, in our Smolenka they were sold by Filippov, we ran after them from school at recess

["Reach the handle"]

Gilyarovsky describes that the fame of Filippov's black bread, saeks and rolls spread beyond Moscow. The newspapers of that time wrote that Filippov's rolls were soft as feather beds, light as swan's down, melting in the mouth like ice cream. “Rightly proud of its cannon, from which they didn’t shoot and the bell that isn’t ringing, Moscow can also boast of its kalach, purely local, national cookies, of which IM Filippov was.”
And the expression "Reach the handle" due to the fact that the townspeople often ate rolls right on the street, holding the roll by the "handle". The "pen" itself was not eaten for reasons of hygiene. According to one of the versions, "got to the handle" spoke of those who did not disdain to eat it. According to another version, tired townspeople after work barely had enough strength to walk home to have a snack. Thus, "to reach the handle" - to rest after work.

[Omela,]

Omela, no words, how great! And only recently I remembered how delicious these rolls were. I don't remember very well about Filippovskaya, I rarely went there, but near the Sportivnaya metro station I bought such rolls for the last time when I went to my first job ... And I ate right on the street, holding the "handle" Do not eat them instantly it was impossible ... It was long ago ... But I remember the taste !!!!
Thanks for the pleasure of admiring your recipes!

According to the third version, the kalach has nothing to do with the expression "to reach the handle". "To reach the handle" in common parlance meant "to become a beggar, to beg, to beg with an outstretched hand."

Medusa, I disagree. Has, and is completely direct. There is a version that a roll with a handle (as we found out, invented for street trade, for the convenience of the buyer), was in special demand among goldsmiths ... Their hands, we understand what they were, in terms of hygiene. So, begging for a bread pen from the goldsmith is the last degree of begging ... There is nowhere to fall further.

[Ikra]

Ikra , thank you very much for the kind words !!!

Medusa, I disagree. Has, and is completely direct.

PPKS.

[Omela,]

Omela, you're welcome! I keep an eye on you all the time, I watch so as not to miss something tasty and interesting.
It's a pity, my oven is antediluvian and not very good, I would also bake in it. And so, all my experiences in her on baking bread are not very inspiring ...
Maybe where on the forum it is, but tell me here - what kind of stove do you have? Or a separate oven?

[Ikra]

Ikra ... well, straight confused !!!

I have an electric stove with an oven ARDO, not that completely antediluvian, but it is 15 years old. Heats from 50C to 250C. No convection and other bells and whistles.

There is also a small Severin mini oven for 22 liters 1600W. Here it turns out through time. The power is great for such a volume. Pies are baked every other time, I don't even try to bake them. Current cakes are obtained without problems.

At the dacha mini-oven Delta 33l. 1300W. Also without convection. Two baking sheets. There were no punctures yet. Convenient for both bread and rolls. I like it, but it takes up a lot of space because it is wider than tall. It would have been where to put home I would have brought it.

In general, we have a topic for mini-ovens here: https://Mcooker-enn.tomathouse.com/index.php@option=com_smf&topic=9411.0... I know that girls praise Rolsen for 26 years.

In-in! And bake well in my tortillas. This tandoor
Thank you, I'll go see what is good. I really want Kalachik

Taak, we have a couple of days according to the plan in alliance with the buns of the Bats, and here again ...
I rub my hands nervously and my eyes burn
I feel that -60 will be dreaming again!
Oh woe to me, woe ...
The next rolls in line!

[alina-ukhova]

alina-ukhova , good luck! Toka is more like bread than a bun ..

: hi: Just take off my hat! Recipe, description. WELL DONE! And the recipe is a must!

[x]

Toka is more like bread than a bun ..

That I understand, only on fixure is not written from what it is from bread or from buns, for fixcheers all the same.

[milvok]

milvok , Thank you!

only on fixure is not written from what it is:

Oh, what is this? You won't remember !!!

[Omela]

Omela
Oksana, perfectly described the molding, baking and the history of the rolls !!
And grit can be replaced with semolina. I met Nordic for sale at an affordable price, I don't even talk about others, the rolls will be gold.
But if you bake and eat all the buns that you bake, you really have to forget about the figure ...

[Vasilisa]

Vasilisa, Thank you!!!

And grit can be replaced with semolina. I met Nordic for sale at an affordable price, I don't even talk about others, the rolls will be gold.

I bought my flour in the Azbuka Vkusa supermarket, I don't remember exactly - a package of 140 rubles, in my opinion. There was semolina, but there was less gluten in it, so I chose this one. In theory, you can use any flour with gluten from 12.5% ​​to 14%, including semolina.

So, today we will also be with kalachi. They are already parting. I will show you later.

Yes, in our Smolenka they were sold by Filippov, we ran after them from school at recess

Hello fellow countryman! Which school? My 69th, finished in 63rd. Today it’s scary to enter that Filipovskaya Buloshnaya on the Arbat, there’s nothing left of the former Temple of Bread.
And now on the topic. The search for grains did not lead to anything, so I add up to 1/3 of semolina to ordinary flour. This had a positive effect on the quality and taste of the bread.Now it will be necessary to practice on Easter cakes and at the same time master the sponge method.
The only thing that confuses me is that the dough for rolls and rushes was kneaded on a cold ice chest, and in the proposed method, cold is not mentioned.

[vac]

The only thing that confuses me is that the dough for rolls and rushes was kneaded on a cold ice chest, and in the proposed method, cold is not mentioned.

vac, You're right. This was necessary so that during the kneading, the bubbles formed would seem to freeze. If you can do it technically now, then go ahead! If you put the already kneaded dough in the refrigerator, this will not affect the bubbles in any way, moreover, it will slow down their growth, which we cannot eat. Which, by the way, I also did in one of the attempts, and I did not like it. Therefore, in the end I laid out this particular option, since it turned out to be the most successful!

The search for grains led nowhere,

I bought it in "Azbuka Vkusa" on Mozhaisk highway.

Hello fellow countryman! Which school? My 69th, finished in 63rd. Today it’s scary to enter that Filipovskaya Buloshnaya on the Arbat, there’s nothing left of the former Temple of Bread.
And now on the topic. The search for grains did not lead to anything, so I add up to 1/3 of semolina to ordinary flour. This had a positive effect on the quality and taste of the bread. Now it will be necessary to practice on Easter cakes and at the same time master the sponge method.
The only thing that confuses me is that the dough for rolls and rushes was kneaded on a cold ice chest, and in the proposed method, cold is not mentioned.

This (ice chest) also confused me until I found a recipe and technology in Plotnikov-Kolesnikov's book "350 recipes for baking ..." And also mariana-aga has the same recipe, processed. Everything turned out to be simple: a safe test method, but in two stages. First, the kneaded dough is kept warm for 3 hours, and then - 3 hours in the cold. The heat is near the battery (25 * C), and the cold is on the glazed loggia (5-10 * C) or in the refrigerator.
As soon as I deal with the photo, I'll post a detailed recipe. But the rolls turned out on the first try. Flour - premium Tikhoretskaya, squirrel 12 g. Now they are parting from Aladushkinskaya, also - 12 g. I knead the dough with a spiral mixer. An important point is steam when baking. The crust is both dense and soft. The crumb is amazingly elastic. To save time and effort, I am now baking according to this scheme just a "brick" - in the new L-10 form.
Filippovskys - I remember, and I remember my grandmother's stories about the pre-war (i.e. before 1914 ...) kalachi.

I put the rolls in the oven, I'm waiting. It turned out that without a good knife ... sad))). I had to work hard with my lip.

[ollyan]

ollyan , welcome to the forum! Take a look HERE... I showed the incision device, maybe you will like it!

Hello, please tell me according to the recipe to leave the dough for 12 hours - this is at what temperature. Will it not peroxide? Or should you put it in the refrigerator for 12 hours?

Svetlana, leave at room temperature. The dough will not turn sour.)

Hurrah! Hurrah! I did it! I looked after this recipe when I was just visiting this site. Long weekends are the engine of progress.
I have one childhood memory - someone came to visit us and brought a real roll. He then struck me to the core with his salty taste, slightly rubbery consistency and, of course, shape. I decided that it looked like a handbag and was worn with this roll for a long time, imagining that I was such a lady.
This is what happened when I grew up completely


Only it seemed to me that the roll should be larger. All the same, you can only hold such a small handle with your fingers, the fist will not fit. Next time I will make 1.5 servings and 150 g each, then probably a more correct size will turn out, what do you think?

Light, listen, it's impossible to watch !!!! Incredible beauty!!!! What a cut, better than the original !!! Does not allow to pluck again !!!

All the same, you can only hold such a small handle with your fingers, the fist will not fit.

Previously, the handle was smaller. You can do more, why not.

[Omela]

Omela, thanks for the praise, especially valuable from you, really. I myself did not expect such a result, after all, a stone is a thing!

stone is a thing!

Plus gold pens !!!

A great recipe - consistently great results!



Parted at room temperature for almost an hour and still cracked a little. Maybe in the warmth you need to defy?

[Svetlana]

Svetlana, very beautiful and appetizing cut !!! And the scallop is so expressive !!! You can also try warm to shorten the proofing time.

Thank you very much for the recipe, I hope it will be delicious. Of me, however, no cook. So you have to persuade your wife to have a culinary experiment.

More than 7 years have passed since the publication of the recipe, and I still take off my hat! There is no more correct recipe and photos demonstrating it. Bravo!