Naval pasta

Naval pasta

Category: Dishes from cereals and flour products

Ingredients
Ground beef	610 g
Pasta	500 g
Bulb onions	390 g
Butter	110 g
Water	3 liters
Salt, pepper bay leaf
Vegetable oil

Cooking method

• Fry high-quality ground beef in vegetable oil, salt and pepper before the end of frying, add bay leaf.
• In another frying pan, fry the onion, chopped with feathers, at the end add 55 g of butter.
• Boil the pasta in salted water until cooked, drain the water, add 55 g of butter.
• Combine pasta, minced meat, onion, mix very well.

Note

Do not be too lazy to look under the spoiler, there is a very tasty story about naval pasta, which prompted me to cook this recipe.

Naval pasta
Something spoler doesn't work.

Few people know that in the middle of the last century, World Chef Contests were held, winning at which meant inscribing your name in the history of world cuisine. Naturally, Soviet chefs did not take part in these competitions - Stalin did not like to let people go abroad. But in 1952, when such a competition was held in Rome, the Grand Prix was received by the dish of the Soviet chef, who himself did not come to Italy, and the recipe was presented by the USSR Ambassador to Italy. A similar story was later with Menshov's film "Moscow Does Not Believe in Tears", which won an Oscar in 1981, but the director himself was not present at the ceremony.
Why was Stalin persuaded to release abroad, if not a cook, then at least his dish? But the Generalissimo once tasted this amazing pasta and was delighted. It was Stalin who gave them the name - "Pasta in the Navy"
And the cook was, as you may have guessed, my unforgettable teacher from the Yalta culinary school Borukh Solomonovich Kantselenbogen.
In "Pasta in the Navy" there were several breakthroughs in cooking and the world cookery community could not help but see and recognize this. And the point was, of course, not in the combination of proteins (meat) and carbohydrates (pasta) - this has already been encountered in the vastness of world food. And the point was HOW Borukh did it, what technologies he used, how he worked and hovered in the kitchen.
By the way, Stalin still awarded Borukh. The leader offered the Great Chef for life any - of his choice - a city in the USSR.
“You know that, Iosif Vissarionovich,” Borukh replied, blowing his nose, “if you happen to be born in a province, it’s better to live in a remote province by the sea”. And Borukh chose Yalta, where he received an apartment on Grafsky Proezd.
This phrase about a province by the sea became known much later, when it was voiced by the future Nobel Prize laureate Joseph Brodsky. Brodsky and Kantselenbogen met in Yalta while eating Borukhov's chebureks, and the Teacher then said the words that struck Brodsky - “I knew only Joseph, so he at least gave me an apartment here, and who are you? Yes, I live in a province by the sea, because it fell to me to be born in the empire! " And Boruch wept, saying these words ...
Stalin also gave then the command to include the recipe for "Naval macaroni" in cookbooks, which was done, but after the death of the leader - only in 1955.
Since then, who has not tried to spoil Boruch's recipe! And he predicted it for me! “Time will pass, Mishka,” he said to me, without even trying to hide his tears, “and my recipe will be defiled and twisted!”
And so it happened. Boruch could predict the future.
To prevent this from happening in the future, I will pass on this recipe as I learned it on that bright May Yalta day, when all our students fled for a walk along the embankment, and I sat like a damn and memorized the words of my great Teacher.
So the ingredients.
Ground beef - 550 grams.Pasta - 450 grams. Onions - 350 grams.
Meat is the best you can find in your market - you do it for yourself, right? It doesn't matter what - sirloin, back, thigh, rump ... If only without veins.
Pasta - only corrugated "Feathers" or "Horns". With the help of "corrugation" - grooves on the body of the pasta - the meat seems to stick to them and the same magical effect is created.
The water for boiling pasta should be 6 times more in weight than the pasta itself. That is, 450 grams - at least 2.5 liters. Boruch once told me how he cooked pasta in the army, where he served as a cook. He needed to feed 1200 people. The norm for one person was 100 grams. Thus, the brewing container had to be 720 liters. Boruch found an old bathtub, washed it and cooked a whole bath of pasta on the wood!
Many argue that you need to cook pasta 2 minutes less than indicated on the pack. They say, in this way, we get slightly undercooked pasta and this is much healthier than boiled pasta. Boruch did not like this. “Well, to hell with them, these Italians with this aldente,” he said, and his face was illuminated by evil lightning from his own beautiful eyes. I knew that in the 60s he worked as a cook in a restaurant in the town of Rimini, where he seduced the owner's daughter, the fat-legged Arabella, who was also the niece of the great Federico Fellini. Arabella became pregnant and Fellini announced that if Boruch did not leave Italy, he would stop making films. But Federico loved the pizza that Boruch prepared for him! But apparently he loved his niece more. Boruch was very fond of cinema, and understood all the greatness of Fellini, therefore he decided to leave, but since then he strongly disliked Italians.
So you need to cook pasta without any "aldente" there.
We boiled it, drained the water and immediately add 50 grams of butter to them.
We only cut the onion with a feather. Fry it in vegetable oil in a separate frying pan until it is almost brown and then add 50 grams of butter to it.
Remember - 2 times 50 grams. It would seem nonsense, but no - chefs from all over the world in 1952 gave a standing ovation to Borukh for these 2 pieces of butter. They already understood what was the matter ...
Fry the minced meat in parallel in a separate frying pan. We loosen it with a wooden spatula all the time, observe how from red it turns pink, then gray ... What is important - no spices! Only at the end - salt, bay leaf and black pepper. Pepper is also a story. We take black pepper grains, fry in a dry frying pan, then grind with the wide side of a chef's knife.
And the final chord - put everything together and mix thoroughly. The meat should get inside the pasta and stick it all around.
This is how the dish turns out, which at one time amazed the best chefs in the world.
After Boruch's death, I found out that in Rimini, on the beach where Fellini's great film Eight and a Half was filmed, there is a restaurant with the amazing name BoruchBar. And there is only one dish on the menu - Macaroni Navy Style, which means "Naval macaroni". The owner of BorukhBar is already a middle-aged woman with very thick legs. She often comes to the shores of the Adriatic Sea and looks long and sadly into the distance. Do I need to say that her name is Arabella?

onion, chopped with feathers

And what about "feathers"?

[ANGELINA BLACKmore]

ANGELINA BLACKmore, Natasha, cut the onion in half not crosswise in half rings, but along

[Tan,]

Tan, now everything is clear as white day.

[celfh]

celfh, Tanya, what a touching and interesting recipe story! Thank you!
I love navy-style pasta, I cook it often, but, as it turned out, the recipe is not the same)
I will definitely cook it right!

[Tatyana]

Naval pasta? I confess I looked at the recipe skeptically. It turns out that I didn't know anything about naval pasta. And the fact that they should be corrugated - and this is correct. Right now, in the night, as I presented this buttery corrugated pasta covered with fried minced meat on a fork ... it is excruciatingly delicious.I will definitely try to cook it strictly according to the recipe, I know exactly what mine will like. Tatyana, thanks for the cultural enlightenment)

[celfh]

celfh, Tatiana, cool story! Thanks for the story! And the photo is so delicious! And who was this student of Borukh, Mishka? Who brought the recipe to us ... Sho, I did not understand ...

Tanya, what a wonderful story. It turns out that I am not preparing this pasta correctly. I use even beef, but boiled. Thank you

[Tatyana]

Tatyana!

Honestly, I myself am ready to kneel before this recipe, but pulling Borukh Solomonovich Kantselenbogen here by the ears is rather a pull by the ears.
There are very big doubts that such a character, and even almost with Ilf-Petrovskaya, even existed with a surname, but there is almost absolute certainty that corrugated pasta did NOT exist during the time of Stalin.

The legend is beautiful. but still there is no absolute faith in it.

[ANGELINA BLACKmore]

ANGELINA BLACKmore, Natasha, Mark's mom, Inna, anavi, Olga, kirch, Ludmila,
Thank you for stopping by. I recalculated all the initial data to 500 g of pasta. The result is a lot
Igrig, Igor, I do not argue Yesterday I tried to find a source, but nowhere is there any mention of Who the Bear is is also not clear, if the one who posted this, and a couple more stories, Mikhail Degtyar, then he, at least, must be over seventy years old, but he looks much younger

Having read under the spoiler a beautiful legend about naval pasta, I was very surprised and doubted: were there any corrugated pasta during Stalin's time? Everything is somehow incomprehensible and fabulous! The recipe must be tested and understand why culinary experts around the world have recognized this recipe as the best of the best. But I cook pasta in my own way, in the wrong way, and my pasta drowns in minced meat, and not naked, with slightly stuck minced meat.

[velli]

velli, valentineThere are more questions than answers in this regard. For example, it is mentioned that it was only in 1955 that this recipe entered the cooking books. In those days, there was not an abundance of cookbooks, and the most recognized is the book on tasty and healthy food in 1955. It's a second to check, get the book off the shelf, which I did. There is no naval pasta recipe at all.
Federico Fellini's niece was named Francesca, and Arabella is mentioned only in this story.
But whatever it was, the taste of pasta did not suffer from these inconsistencies.

[Tan,]

But whatever it was, the taste of pasta did not suffer from these inconsistencies.

Tan, I personally do not care whether there were corrugations or not, in those days ... was there Borukh .... I just like this recipe)) Thank you very much for placing and attracting attention. I have a profession of a cook, BUT ... no matter how sophisticated I was to make naval pasta, I did not like them, but here it is even delicious to read.

[ANGELINA BLACKmore]

ANGELINA BLACKmore, Natasha, that's for sure

[Tanechka]

Tanechka, thanks for the recipe!
To be honest, all pasta with minced meat is navy-style pasta. Well, somehow it happened from childhood, from my grandmother, from my parents. Now I'll do it exactly according to the recipe! Just finish the spaghetti and cook it.
The story is very interesting, curious and informative!
Thank you!

To be honest, all pasta with minced meat is navy-style macaroni

Oh, in this we are alike I also always dilute the minced meat with broth so that it would better envelop the pasta

[celfh]

celfh, Tatyana, Thank you! And thanks for the recipe. And for the pleasure of reading this amazing, albeit fictional, story.

[Song]

Song, Anya, thanks for good words

[celfh]

celfh, Tanechka, I always make macaroni in a naval fashion, as it comes to my head: uzhas: with both minced meat and boiled meat, I add various spices, now I'll try it right.
Special thanks for the story, it was interesting to read.

[Tatyana1103]

now I'll try it right

Tatyana1103, Tatyana, Hope you like it

[celfh]

celfh, TatyanaThanks for the recipe! Very interesting! They taste different from what I cook at home. Always love recipes with history.

[celfh]

Hope you like it

celfh, Tatyana, everyone loves pasta in my house, so that they will definitely like it.

[celfh]

celfh, Tatiana, thanks for the beautifully presented recipe! It doesn't matter if the story is true, but beautiful! And the pasta did not become less tasty from this. Often I cook pasta in a navy way, something like this, with the exception of proportions, everything by eye. And if I sometimes do it with boiled meat, then this is a different dish, albeit also tasty. For the sake of interest, it must be cooked exactly according to the recipe, sometimes a small nuance strongly affects the final result.

There are many recipes for navy pasta. And from fresh minced meat, and from boiled meat, from poultry, from pork, from beef, from liver, etc.

The classic "naval" recipe is from boiled meat. The meat was cooked in broth for the first dish to the sailors, and the already boiled meat was chopped / ground with onions, fried with butter, and mixed with pasta, for the second. Nobody in the Navy specially for this dish grinded fresh meat into minced meat, and did not store fresh minced meat separately ...

The history of navy pasta.
A similar dish served as food for sailors and travelers already in the Middle Ages, since the products necessary for cooking are very nutritious and easy to transport.

In Russia, the dish became known at the beginning of the 18th century, having arrived with Italian masters. The meat in the sea was taken in the form of corned beef in barrels. The corned beef was soaked, broth was cooked. The meat itself, after cooking, was extracted, chopped finely (as an option, passed through a meat grinder) and mixed with pasta.

During the Great Patriotic War, naval pasta was one of the main dishes. Due to the fact that it is problematic to store minced meat during sea voyages, in the classic naval version of the dish, only stew is used.

Subsequently, the dish became widespread due to the speed of preparation and the simplicity of the recipe, which the most inexperienced cook can quickly master, and naval pasta appears less and less in the diet of sailors.
🔗

And my childhood was spent in anticipation of this disgustingly simple, hearty and tasty dish. But, only from boiled meat - it still tastes better for me ... Here an analogy begs for meat dumplings and dumplings - in the first case, minced meat from fresh meat is wrapped in the dough, and in the second - minced meat from boiled meat. Both are delicious, but in different ways!

Pasta 610 g

Dry?

Innus, until Tatiana appears, let me put forward a version that dry. I rely on the amount of meat.

in the classic naval version of the dish, only stew is used.

And I completely forgot about the stew, it's so delicious.

[Kroshik]

Dry

Kroshik, do you know why I love you, among other things? For attentiveness
In the original, all products are based on 450 g of pasta. I have a pack of 500g pasta. That is, it was necessary to recalculate with a factor of 1.1. I counted it correctly, laid it down correctly too, but I wrote it ... I have already corrected everything

[Accomplishment]

Accomplishment, Lenusik, thank you, magic wand !!!

I'm also inclined to believe that the recipe indicates the weight of dry macaroons, but in order not to be tormented by vague doubts, I decided to clarify ...

Tanechka, we simultaneously sent our messages ...

[celfh]

celfh, Tanya, thank you for your recipe with an interesting story.
She cooked everything like a Great Master!
Although it is not the first time that Naval Pasta has been in our house, today's ones are much tastier!
I will always do with such proportions!
Thank you!


Py Sy: the horns were chosen "with grooves" !!!

[mamusi]

mamusi, Margarita, To your health!